Cypress Point: The Course Most Golfers Will Only Ever See in Photographs

Cypress Point: The Course Most Golfers Will Only Ever See in Photographs
Photo: By schnaars from San Jose, CA - 16th Back to Tee 2

Most of the world’s great golf courses eventually get played by enough people that the photographs stop doing the work. Cypress Point never reached that point, and by design it never will. Roughly two hundred and fifty members, no green fee for the public, no waiting list to speak of because there is functionally no path onto it without an invitation. And yet ask a hundred golfers to name the best course in the world and a large share of them will say Cypress Point without having walked a single hole of it, because the photographs alone have done more persuading than most courses manage with decades of championship golf.

Alister MacKenzie built it in 1927 and 1928 on land that, by his own account, needed remarkably little forcing. The routing takes players from a quiet, wooded opening stretch through dunesland and finally out onto a rocky point where the Pacific takes over entirely, and MacKenzie was clear-eyed enough to know that no amount of design cleverness inland was going to compete with what the coastline offered on its own. He saved his boldest strokes for when the ocean arrived, and largely got out of its way everywhere else.

The Three Holes Everyone Actually Means

When people talk about Cypress Point, they are usually talking, whether they say so or not, about the fifteenth, sixteenth and seventeenth. The fifteenth is a short, downhill par three to a green perched above Seal Rock, ringed by bunkers and cypress and about as generous a birdie chance as the course offers, provided the wind is behaving, which it rarely is. MacKenzie himself worried the hole did not offer enough variety of shot, seemingly forgetting that the wind off the water would supply all the variety anyone could want.

The sixteenth needs no introduction to anyone who has watched golf on television for more than a few years, but it rewards one anyway. Two hundred and thirty-odd yards, played entirely over churning ocean to a green sitting on its own promontory, with nothing but a small bail-out cut into the cliff to the left for anyone unwilling to commit. A persistent myth holds that founding member Marion Hollins talked MacKenzie into making it a par three rather than the four he originally intended; the man who actually supervised construction always maintained MacKenzie saw it as a heroic one-shotter from the start, and that Hollins’s contribution was proving it could be reached by simply stepping up and hitting a full shot over the chasm herself. Whichever version is true, the hole has spent nearly a century being the single photograph most people picture when someone says the word “Cypress.”

The seventeenth keeps the drama going rather than easing off it, a long par four running back along the same cliff edge to a green tucked hard against the rocks, guarded by a grove of wind-bent cypress that gives the club its name. Three consecutive holes, three different problems, one unbroken stretch of coastline: it remains the standard against which every other closing run in golf gets measured, and very few have come close.

A History With an Uncomfortable Chapter

For over forty years Cypress Point was part of the annual pro-am rotation now known as the AT&T Pebble Beach Pro-Am, alongside Pebble Beach itself and Spyglass Hill, giving the wider golfing public its only real look at the course beyond magazine spreads. That ended after 1990, when the PGA Tour introduced a policy requiring host clubs to demonstrate non-discriminatory membership practices and Cypress Point, whose membership at the time included no non-white members, declined to change. The club was dropped from the rotation and replaced by Poppy Hills. It is not the sort of detail that fits neatly into a piece about a beautiful golf course, but leaving it out would flatter a history that does not deserve the flattering, and the club’s membership practices have remained a subject of scrutiny in the decades since.

The course has found its way back into competitive golf occasionally regardless, most recently hosting the Walker Cup, and each appearance draws the same reaction from players seeing it in person for the first time: photographs, it turns out, undersell it. The scale of the ocean holes, the way the wind actually moves across the point rather than simply blowing past it, and the sheer quiet of a course with so few rounds played on it each year are not things a magazine spread can fully carry.

Why It Still Matters to Golfers Who Will Never Play It

There is a reasonable argument that a course this inaccessible should not occupy so much space in the sport’s imagination. But golf has always kept a handful of places that function less as courses to be played and more as proof of what the game can look like at its absolute best, and Cypress Point has held that role longer than almost anywhere else. Every architect who has tried to build a great ocean hole in the last century has been building, consciously or not, in response to the sixteenth. That is a strange kind of influence for a course almost nobody gets to walk, and it is unlikely to loosen its grip any time soon.